Dennis Saul
In the first years of the 20th century, Bronx Park was a vast expanse of over 700 acres, a space intentionally divided into two distinct, world-class institutions and a wild river valley that ran between them. The park was not just a simple green space; it was a destination for scientific study, animal exhibition, and public recreation, drawing visitors from across the city and around the world.
The northern portion of the park was home to the New York Botanical Garden. Its centerpiece was the magnificent glasshouse, then known simply as the Conservatory. This enormous structure, a series of interconnected glass pavilions, was a “Crystal Palace” filled with exotic plants from every corner of the globe. Visitors could walk from a humid palm court into a desert landscape of cacti and succulents. Nearby stood the imposing, four-story Museum Building, which housed the Garden’s extensive library, lecture halls, and a vast collection of dried plant specimens essential for botanical research.
Flowing through the heart of the Garden was the Bronx River. Along its banks stood the Lorillard Snuff Mill, a stone building from the 1840s that had been repurposed by the Garden. A highlight for many was the Hemlock Grove, a 40-acre forest of ancient, old-growth trees that had never been cut. This tract of virgin forest provided a living link to the landscape that existed before European settlement.
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To the south of the Botanical Garden, separated by a stretch of parkland, was the New York Zoological Park, universally known as the Bronx Zoo. Opened to the public in 1899 under the direction of the fiery conservationist William Temple Hornaday, the zoo was designed with a new philosophy. Instead of small, bare cages, animals were housed in larger enclosures that attempted to mimic their natural habitats.
The zoo’s entrance was marked by a series of grand, ornate buildings designed in the Beaux-Arts style. The Elephant House, Lion House, and Primate House were monumental structures with spacious indoor quarters and large outdoor yards, giving visitors a better view of the animals. The sea lion pool, with its dramatic rock formations, was a central feature and a popular gathering spot. The zoo’s collection grew rapidly, featuring herds of American bison, a species Hornaday was instrumental in saving from extinction, as well as lions, tigers, and grizzly bears.
A deeply controversial event occurred at the zoo in 1906. For a short period, a young Congolese man named Ota Benga was displayed in an enclosure in the Primate House. The exhibit, which also featured a chimpanzee, was sanctioned by the zoo’s director and drew immediate condemnation from Black community leaders and some clergy, though it was popular with many of the 40,000 visitors who saw it. The public outcry led to the exhibit’s closure after just a few days.
Between these two major institutions, the park’s natural landscape offered simpler pleasures. The Bronx River, the only true river in the borough, provided opportunities for boating and canoeing in the summer. In the winter, its frozen surface transformed into a popular spot for ice skating. Families would spread out blankets for picnics on the open lawns, enjoying a day of fresh air and natural beauty away from the dense city blocks.
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